Farms: LAWN TRACTOR REPAIR : HOW TO DIAGNOSE A BAD ELECTRIC BLADE CLUTCH
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WATCH AS THE MM1 SHOWS YOU THE INTERNALS OF AN ELECTRIC CLUTCH
Comments
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Fixed!!! I just purchased a second hand Scag zero turn mower and had an issue with the blades intermittently not engaging. Was thinking I'd been 'sold a lemon' by the guy I'd bought it from and it might not have been such a bargain. The problem did not appear to be related to heat but maybe a small amount of heat was doing it. I worked my way through the seat safety switch, then the PTO Clutch Switch using other YouTube tutorials ... which all turned out fine. Then I was down to the clutch itself and used your video to learn how to test if the clutch was good. Tested the ohms of the clutch and then volts into it while the clutch while disconnected and mower was running with PTO switch on. All fine. I then went onto "how to adjust your electric clutch" videos. A quarter turn of each adjustment bolt and it's working perfectly again. Unbelievable it's ultimately so simple. So, with the help of folks like you, a guy with a finance degree can fix his commercial zero turn. What's not to love about the Internet! Thanks for taking the time to explain this in easy to understand terms. I knew nothing about it when I started trying to solve the problem. Much appreciated. Thank you!!
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My mower will not start, no clicking from starter or any noises, battery is strong shows over 14 volts, when i ran diagnostics it refers to my PTO clutch or switch. I replaced the switch but its the same problem, will a PTO clutch keep the mower from starting?
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Excellent Tutorial
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Hey Jeremy. Great video. Very helpful. Quick question. Did your clutch make some really bad sounds when it was on the mower since the inside was not connected like you showed us? what were the symptoms that made you tear it apart?
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Thank You So Much. My wife thinks our mower is a D-fencer, Tree trimmer, And garden hose winder. Of cores, I am the one that has to jack it up and un clog Half of the neighborhood from under the deck. :(
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I am about to test my clutch. I have a Cub Cadet GT 1554 and in grass that really doesn't even look deep, I hear it slowing down. I can even see the stream of clippings get weaker when it happens too. I always grease the spindles with a good grease. I try NEVER to mow if I can ride around the yard and the tires are wet or even damp. I have new blades. If it is not the clutch there are other possibly more expensive things it could be. I am going to get my ohm meter and see if it is just a weak clutch. I can get to my wires without taking the clutch off so this would be quick and mostly painless.
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I have a bobcat zero turn and the pro switch works but when I engage the blade the blade band that goes around the electric clutch spins incredibly slow any suggestions?
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I would weld that shaft onto the pressure plate if the customer was tight on cash. $300 is a lot of beans for some people. If it fails later, they already know they have to shell out for a new one. If the welds hold, then you look like the hero and everybody wins.
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Thank you for the info! Cheers.
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I have a John Deere 190C, when I was mowing the other day my blades stopped woking and they wont come back on. I bought a new PTO switch, still nothing. Took the belt off the clutch pulled out the PTO switch the clutch engages and spins but makes a load grinding noise. Do you think the clutch has gone? Or could there be something else? Thanks, J.
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I clipped a wire into each battery terminal and probe into each place on the plug and it clicked. I think this is a way to check if the clutch is good also. ???
bob -
switch any one ?
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my pto wont ingage what would it be
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Good Morning Jeremy,
I am starting a part-time repair business and am now working on a 2006(?) Cub Cadet LT1050. I have replaced one spindle assembly, both upper and lower bearings on the other two and installed a new idler pulley, all were bad. the mower drive belt is good. I have sharpened and balanced the blades, but when you engage the electric PTO clutch, the mower shakes, the engine lugs down, and after 30 seconds or so, the clutch cuts out. You can immediately reengage the clutch and the whole things happens again. I spun all blades by hand, not hitting anything under the deck.
I contacted tech support at Cub Cadet, got to a level 2 tech, went through what I had done and all he could come up with, after some thought, was that it must be a bad PTO clutch. Currently it has a Warner 5219-64 and I have ordered an Xtreme replacement clutch, seems a better and less expensive option.
Have you seen this before? Am I on the right track?
Thank you
Tony
Port Hadlock, WA -
Mine just went out checking it tomorrow
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I tested it and it read 2.9 which means the magnet is good. But what could be the problem if the electric clutch does not disengage?
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could the clutch be welded bak into one solid piece?
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How do you take apart this
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What ohm setting have tou got it on? I have several different settings on mine. 200,2000,20K,200K,2000K. Which should I be using. 200 shows 4.8, 2000 shows 7 and 20K shows .001. I usually use 20K
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I just did this test On toro zmaster mower and it read 2.0